For most yards in Ontario, CA, stump grinding is the better choice. A grinder chews the stump and main surface roots into chips below the soil line in an hour or two, with little damage to the lawn, irrigation or hardscape. Full stump removal, where the stump and root ball are dug out, is mainly for new construction, foundations or slabs where every root must go. It leaves a large hole and disturbs much more of the yard.
How stump grinding works
A stump grinder has a heavy wheel with carbide teeth. The operator sweeps it side to side across the stump, lowering it a little with each pass, until the stump is below grade. Main surface roots can be followed and ground out as well. The result is a hole full of wood chips and soil that can be filled and planted.
How full removal works
Full removal means digging around the stump, cutting the major roots and pulling the stump and root ball out with an excavator or a winch. On a big tree, the root ball can be several feet across. The hole has to be backfilled and compacted, and the process can damage nearby irrigation, walks and walls.
Comparing the two
- Disturbance. Grinding is localized. Removal tears up a much bigger area.
- Time. Grinding a typical stump takes an hour or two. Removal can take much longer.
- Roots left behind. Grinding leaves deeper roots in the soil to break down. Removal takes most of them.
- Best for. Grinding suits lawns, beds and replanting. Removal suits foundations, slabs and construction.
Depth matters
For sod, a few inches below grade is usually enough. For a new tree, grind deeper and wider, and plant a little off the old spot. For concrete or pavers, grind as deep as practical, and let the base contractor know where the stump was.
Call 811 first
Grinding goes into the soil, so we have underground lines marked through USA North 811 before deep grinding near utilities. In older Ontario neighborhoods around Euclid Avenue, gas and water lines can run close to old trees.
After grinding
Remove most of the chips if you plan to plant or lay sod, fill with topsoil, tamp it and leave it slightly mounded to allow for settling. Fresh chips can be used as mulch elsewhere. Some species, such as ficus and elms, may sprout from leftover roots, and those sprouts can be cut as they appear.
To schedule grinding, see stump grinding, or combine it with tree removal. Our guides on tree removal cost and signs a tree is dying are useful before a removal. Call (909) 479-2614.
Cost differences
Stump grinding is usually the cheaper option, because it is quick and uses one machine. Full removal often needs an excavator, more labor, hauling of the root ball and backfill soil, which adds up. For most homeowners who simply want the stump gone and the spot usable, grinding gives the best value.
Several stumps at once
If you have more than one stump from past removals, grinding them all at one visit is usually cheaper per stump. Mark each one before the crew arrives, and point out any irrigation lines, valves or sprinkler heads nearby.
Special cases
A stump right against a block wall, a foundation or a pool may limit how deep and close the grinder can safely go. Palm stumps are fibrous and grind differently from hardwood stumps, but they can be ground the same way. Very large stumps from old eucalyptus may take longer and leave a big pile of chips.
Common questions
Can I leave a stump to rot on its own?
You can, but it takes a long time, often many seasons for a large stump. Meanwhile it is a trip hazard, takes up space, may sprout and can attract termites and other insects. Grinding is faster and lets you use the spot right away.
How close to a wall can you grind?
Compact grinders can work within a few inches of walls, fences and walks. We take care near block wall footings and may leave a small amount of wood directly against a structure to avoid damaging it. If roots have already cracked a wall, we point it out.